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Yesterday I uploaded my blog post about how to cut bias binding. You can check there if you need to brush up on that. In this post we are going to bias bind the Manhattan top neckline. If you scroll down you can also find the video for the top. Prepare the bias binding, closing the neckline bias creating a continuous loop.

You are going to learn how to do this like a total professionals!

Step 1:

We iron the strip lengthways in half, creating one edge with a neat fold and one with the rough edges. I always use my tailor’s clapper to weigh down the folded edge so that it becomes very sharp. This will help you out if you are working with fabrics which don’t crease easily. Here they may need a little help. You can purchase your own fabulous clapper with pincushion from my Amazon shop.

This is different……

You bet! This is the technique most manufacturers use and for good reason. Less chance or error, a clean look and you don’t have to get up again to go to the ironing board. Quarter your neckline and the bias and you are ready.

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Step 2:

You can sew the bias tape to the right or the wrong side of the fabric, depending on the look you want to achieve. Here, I wanted the bias to show, so I had to sew it to the fabric underside first. Stretch the bias as needed. Once the bias is sewn to the neckline you can cut back the seam allowance and then go on to understitching. Below you can see what it should look like.

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Step 3:

Understitch the bias binding. In this case it means, sewing the seam allowance to the top. This ensures that the underside never rolls out and looks ugly. Then roll the bias to the upper side of the top.

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Step 4:

Topstitch the bias binding to the topside of the neckline. Make sure you cover the rough edge of the cut back seam allowance. Iron the edge with lots of steam and you are done. Fabulouslessness!

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Have a look at the video right here:

Bias binding a Neckline – Manhattan Top Neckline

Bias binding a Neckline – Manhattan Top Neckline

Yesterday I uploaded my blog post about how to cut bias binding. You can check there if you need to brush up on that. In this post we are going to bias bind the Manhattan top neckline. If you scroll down you can also find the video for the top. Prepare the bias binding, closing the neckline bias creating a continous loop.

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10 Ideas How to Upcycle Old Clothes | Denim | Shirt

 

I love upcycling, not just because it is cheap but you just can’t get some fabrics. Jeans for example should have that worn look. In industry it is painstakingly created with lots of machinery. Denim from fabric shops more often than not, look to new! You never quite gets the same result. Don’t get me wrong it can look awesome too, after its been scrubbed, bleached and tormented! But upcycling a pair of jeans is a great way to make a cheap and soon to be favorite item in kiddos wardrobe.

 
 
 Issariya Sotthibandhu Smith loves trying new stuff and she used the Oscar shorts pattern to create a cool pair of shorts.
 
 
 
 Usually the pattern has a gathered front but she decided flat was the way to go. I do have to say, I agree, gathered denim in the front wouldn’t have looked as nice.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

This is the pair of jeans she used. You can often also recycle the pocket openings etc but these were just too worn. So here is what she did.

She cut open the center front and back, so the pieces could be placed on flat.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Then, easy as pie, she placed the pattern pieces on and cut them out.

As you can see, she created a contrast, which she also used in the lovely Paris jacket she made. I think we all are inspired by what we see on the ‘Great British Sewing Bee’ every season, if you haven’t watched this program yet, google it you will absolutely love it! Needless to say I think Issariya would be a perfect candidate for the show.

 
 
 
 

She kept the back pockets, which can be a pain to get on and they look fabulous all over sized and worn.

 
 
 
 

For the front she created new pockets and the contrast peeps out of the front nicely making this upcycle of an old pair of jeans, ready for the bin, a favorite for this little lady

 
 
 
 

Next up is the lovely Bianca Scherer. She sewed a boys shirt using an old discarded shirt from her husband. The pdf sewing pattern used was of course our favorite, the ‘Cool Shirt‘.

 
 
 
 

You can already see that she use the check pattern very cleverly and added a contrast placket for the front.

 
 
 
 

She completely unpicked the entire shirt and after cutting out actually had some left over. Old shirts are absolutely brilliant as fabrics like this are hard to come by. This shirt was made for a very special first communion service!

 
 
 
 

Bianca showed us a sneak peak into her progress here. It of course takes time but it also saves so much money and the fabrics are usually also good quality!

 
 
 
 

And there you have it, a perfect shirt for a lucky little laddy!

 
 
 
 

 

Of course I can’t leave out the awesome blouse Ela created for her little girl some years back! She used an old shirt of her husbands, he wears very nice shirts, and created the Lily blouse.

 
 
 
 

Ela created these lovely roses and even adorned them with tiny pearls. A bit of lace at the trim and a wonderful favorite was made.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

You can get roses on a roll too, and its so easy to just pop on some beads to make them super special.

 
 
 
 

There is so much more we can do to upcycle, safe a little cash and also help our environment. I will add to this post soon until we really have 10! For now I hope you are suitably inspired to make your very own upcycle!

#upcycle #summer #FrocksFrolics #buttondownshirt #greatbritishsewingbee #PDFSewingPatterns #pdfpattern #howto #meetthemaker #denimupcycle #pdfsewingpattern #frocksfrolics

 
 
How to Apply Bias Binding

How to Apply Bias Binding

Today I am going to show you how to apply bias binding to a neckline, armhole and more. I just love bias binding. It is great for making your clothes look super professional with a good couture finish. It’s not the easiest thing to do and it can look pretty messy if you don’t follow the steps so I am going to share a few secrets with you to have your garment looking beautiful.

When I worked for high end designers, they were sooo picky about the bias binding. Whilst it often gave me a headache, I also became quite an expert on it.

In the nineties I worked for a wonderful designer in Bath, England. I produced an entire collection of wonderful clothes twice a year working with slippery velvet and fine, sheer silks. We rarely serged anything and bound all seams with bias binding or used french seams. Needless to say it wasn’t always easy and my particular pet hate were bias binding sheer organza coats!

Once you had to apply bias binding to an orange organza coat (of which I made one too many!) you will understand that bias binding is a complex issue. I couldn’t find the exact picture of the coat in question, but have a look at this recent design and you will see examples from Carole Wallers’ most recent collection!

The reason I mention orange organza in particular is because orange organza is soft, whereas black organza is firmer. It is just how the fabric dye works. The lesson I learnt from this? When you are making your own bias binding, you need to ensure an even firmness of the bias tape and to achieve this I recommend investing in spray starch (it’s going to be your new best friend) which is especially important when you are using a bias binding attachment on your sewing machine. If it’s too soft it will twist and be an absolute nightmare to work with…save yourself the headache!

So, I’m going to show you two professional methods with self-cut bias tape/ binding.

“Why these methods and not the pre-ironed bias tape you can readily buy everywhere, Marina?” You may ask? Because this is so much nicer! It also gives you a much more professional look and lastly you can make any lightweight fabric into a beautiful finish on your garments.

Here we go, let’s learn how to apply bias binding (the couture way)!

 
 

First of all, grab that starch and generously apply to the fabric you wish to turn into bias binding. The beauty of starch is that it washes and wears out – by the time you have finished handling the fabric or when you wash it the starch will magically disappear and the perfectly applied bias binding will make people admire your skills.

“How on earth did she get it so straight and even?” they will wonder.

 
 

How wide should you make the bias binding?

The short answer is that if you have lots of bias binding to do keep it wide (about 4cm) as it will be easier to work with, and if you have less to do then you can make it less wide.

*The most important thing about bias binding…. is that it must be cut across the grain.* This means that you need to cut it at a 45 degree angle, as this gives you the right amount of stretch (making bias binding perfect for curves!)

 
 

1. The Couture Method (bias tape is visible)

The couture method has two options and the first one has the bias visible. It actually will turn out super professional and its also less likely to look home made, if correctly executed.

Here we need to cut the bias tape a little wider, as we are first folding the bias lengthways in half. This will result in multiple layers of fabric so it is important to use light-weight materials for it. Cut the wider strips, say at least 4.5 cm ( 1.8 inches) wide.

 
 

Grab your ruler and mark the bias tape out. Straighten up the rough edge first.

 
 

Mark the bias tape out. Cut the strips and you are almost there.

 
 
 
 

Iron the bias lengthways in half.

 
 
 
 

To show how it all works I am sharing with you how to bind a pocket on the festive version of my half apron which you can find here.

 
 
 
 

The bias is placed on the underside of the pocket and sewn on with a 1 cm seam allowance. The key here is to keep the bias tape straight as you feed it into the presser foot while you move the pocket edge which lies beneath.

 
 

Now we are going to cut back that seam allowance.

 
 

Now we are doing some understitching (in this case we are sewing the binding to the apron). The reason for understitching is that it stabilises the fabric, gives you a perfect edge and makes your sewing much easier to wok with.

 
 

This method is used in the industry really frequently, as it means that the production worker doesn’t have to get up to iron the garment! It’s one of my favourite tricks as it’s much quicker than getting up to iron after every step.

Onwards my dears…. next we are rolling that gorgeous bias to the top side of the edge.

 
 
 

Pin the bias to the edge, keeping the distance even. If you work accurately it is a breeze (take your time on getting this bit right, I promise it’ll make all the difference to the finished product).

 
 

Alternatively, if you’re feeling confident and are a more experienced sewer, there is no need to pin. I personally love just going at it and not moving from my sewing machine. Bam!

 
 

Now we topstitch very neatly and close to the edge. You only have to worry about that and it whether it catches underneath! Lovely!

And that is it friends, a beautiful firm edge which will be much less likely to stretch!

2. Couture Binding (not visible)

 
 

This is the most common used method in industrial manufacturing. You see it absolutely everywhere! The key is to make sure the bias ends up nice and slim!The bias tape should be 3,5 cm wide for this method. Some people prefer the 1 cm seam allowance and then trim. Professionals usually just use less seam allowance and a slimmer bias tape. That is up to you.

Beginner sewers should use the 1 cm seam allowance and then trim back sharpish!

 
 

So this is how it is done. We sew the bias tape to the outside of the garment. Then we cut the seam allowance back.

 
 

Now we under-stitch the seam. This means we are sewing the bias to the seam allowance. It results in a perfect finish. A little lip is created which prevents any of the bias from showing.

 
 

Roll the bias to the inside and topstitch at an equal distance to the edge.

The result is a perfect t-shirt edge which will not stretch – hurrah!

 
 

And that is all for today folks! I really hope this helps you understand a little bit more about self-cut bias tape. Let us know in the comments how you found it….!

Don’t forget we also have this tutorial as a video in our academy.

 
 

Sign up, enroll and enjoy!

 

#freesewingcourse #beginner #sewing #free #techniques #biasbinding #howtoapplybiasbinding #howtosewbiasbinding #Biasbindingsewingcourse #couturebiasbinding

How to Add Snap Style Fastenings to a Romper

How to Add Snap Style Fastenings to a Romper

Hello everyone!

Today I am introducing you to a video I recently added on my YouTube which shows you step by step exactly how to put snap style fastenings onto a romper/babygrow. An even more detailed video can be found when you buy my ‘Lollipop’ Baby Romper which is now live in our shop. You can find the Lollipop Baby Romper here.

I’m so proud of my new Baby Collection which we are going to be launching for spring. If you’ve bought my patterns before, you’ll know that I spend a long time perfecting the sizing and fit and that I provide full detailed video instructions which are really clear (comes from my experience as a sewing teacher I think!). You can check out the Romper sewing course here, absolute bargain at $8.50 and it goes from newborn to 3 years so you’ll be using this pattern again and again.

Snap fastenings can be fairly intimidating to work out. There are so many different parts and you need to make sure that everything lines up and is put in correctly. This is where I come in!

When I was first drafting my ‘Lollipop’ Baby Romper pattern I have to admit that I inserted my snaps wrong, and I’ve been a professional sewer for many years (it can be so confusing). This has helped me to create the best how to insert snap fastening video to make sure you get a perfect result every time.

In this video I show you:

  • Introduction to our new Baby Collection PDF Sewing Patterns

  • What supplies you need to insert snaps

  • Tips & Tricks for choosing the right snap fastenings

  • Where to buy your snap fastenings

  • What size snap fastenings you need for baby rompers

  • How to use snap tools

  • Where to insert snaps on a baby romper

  • How to insert holes into fabric

  • How to insert snaps on the binding

  • Tips & Tricks for inserting your snaps perfectly every time

Sign up to our mailing list here to get notified when new items in our Baby Collection comes out (plus free goodies and discounts)!

#SewingforBaby #Snaps #BabyCollection #howto

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